9 March 2014

  • Food in Bangkok: Karmakamet Diner

    Hot new “must try” restaurants in Bangkok are like dandelions: they pop up frequently but don’t last long. One recent flowery addition to the local dining scene, Karmakamet Diner, stands a chance at staying around, at least if their brunch is any indication.

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    Karmakamet is a local brand specializing in high-quality and beautifully packaged perfumes, aromatics, and candles. They started with a small shop at Chatuchak Market and grew slowly. Eventually, a small tea shop opened at Central World Plaza and then not that long ago a cafe opened in Silom.

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    In the last few months, they have opened their first full-blown restaurant in a stylish converted warehouse tucked just behind Emporium’s second car park structure. The building resembles a greenhouse-cum-factory with views of the pretty garden through windows glazed to keep the sunlight from being unbearable.

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    The interior space is richly designed with lots of vintage-looking details. Most of the dandelion restaurants in Bangkok also feature fetching interiors, but Karmakamet Diner seems to have been more thoughtfully designed than most. It really is a pleasant space with interesting things to notice whichever direction you look.

    Of course, my primary concern in any restaurant is the food. While I haven’t been there for dinner yet, I have had weekend brunch there three times over the past six weeks. Each time the food quality was consistent, the presentation attractive, and while the dishes are relatively pricey, I find them a fair value given the quality, portion size, and beautiful setting. Let’s take a look at what I tried – rest assured I dined with other people and didn’t eat all of this food myself!

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    Home made granola with fresh fruits and yogurt. Tasty, although it is granola so I’m not sure that I can expect anything amazing.

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    The crab-avocado sandwich has a spicy truffle mayonnaise, rocket, hard boiled egg, and tomato confit. This was a tasty sandwich although the use of plain thick-cut white bread was a bit of a letdown. Something whole grain would have been nicer.

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    Panini with roasted vegetables, melted cheese, pesto, and a ridiculously tasty portion of ratatouille. A pretty simple dish but well-executed. The choice of bread was very good.

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    The croque madame was one of the highlights. Layered buttered toast with Gruyere cheese, ham, bacon, and sous-vide egg, topped with melted Mozzarella. It is every bit as rich and decadent as it sounds. Perhaps not for the high of cholesterol!

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    A pasta dish featuring capellini with cod roe and garlic. This was a nice dish, pleasantly salty from the roe. There was also a very spicy crab pasta (not pictured) that was enjoyable and, true to its promise, very spicy.

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    Penne with N’Duja, an Italian spicy sausage that seems to be quite the favored ingredient here in Bangkok these days, along with Burrata cheese. The sauce was really tasty, though, and the pasta was properly cooked.

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    Eggs Benedict – available with either ham or smoked salmon, or with salmon patties as a substitute for the English muffins. I tried the ham and the salmon patty versions and enjoyed both. The eggs were perfectly cooked with firm whites and liquid yolks. The Hollandaise sauce is smooth and velvety although just a bit more tart than I like. There is a careful balance to achieve with the acidity, maybe a matter of preference more than anything else.

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    The “full breakfast” features just about everything you would consider to be a breakfast food, plus a bit of mixed greens salad. It is a huge portion and makes you glad that food is generally served family style here in Thailand. As a side note, food at Karmakamet Diner did come out family style in a hodge-potch manner. Diners ordering individual plates be forewarned!

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    The so-called “can’t resist pancake” – the pancake is buried under duck confit, sautéed potatoes, crisp bacon, and sour cream served with a side of maple syrup. My first reaction (before taking a bite) was “what the heck is this mess?” After I tried it, all was forgiven. The pancake is really just there to absorb all the tasty flavors from the bacon, duck, and syrup.

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    For dessert, we shared a massive slice of French toast surrounded with fresh fruits and topped with an orange sauce and maple syrup. Shared among four or six people, it is just the right amount of sweet with which to conclude the meal.

    Service was generally attentive and responsive. One thing that I greatly appreciate is that the kitchen properly warms the plates before putting food on them. Especially for dishes like Eggs Benedict, a cool or even room-temperature plate will cause the sauce to quickly form an unappealing skin. The plates were warm, almost hot, to the touch. Bonus points for attention to that detail.

    Without having tried the dinner menu, I’m not yet sure if Karmakamet Diner is just another pretty dandelion restaurant, soon to fade with the changing trends. But if brunch is any indication, I think they may blossom into something much more lasting and substantial.

     

Comments (13)

  • That looks like a wonderful brunch menu, Chris — I’m glad you prefaced it with the disclaimer that you didn’t eat all of it!

  • I love your analogy of a dandelion restaurant. You write so beautifully descriptive, and paired with your delicious photos, I think you should be a paid writer in a published food or travel magazine. I know if I were to ever travel to that side of the would, I would hope to re-read several of your recommendations and plan them into my itinerary, including breakfast at Karmakamet.
    Thank you for sharing your experiences with us.

  • same thing in the Fort Worth area and Dallas. In our little town you don’t want to get used to some mom and pop place cause next thing you know they close up.
    I have to just enjoy it while it’s there but know if the locals don’t support it it will be gone. I think they try to do to much and they need to just start off small and stay small and just have a to go window with picnic tables.

    • That is really the secret, isn’t it: start small and focus on doing a few things really well instead of trying to be everything to everyone.

  • I had yogurt for lunch in anticipation of dinner out. Now I’m all drooly and my stomach is growling like a lion. All of it looked amazingly delicious. I had to look up the sous vide and I’m wondering if there is a way to do it without the expensive equipment… I think it would be fun to try.

    • The challenge with trying to do sous vide yourself is that maintaining the correct water temperature is very difficult. For food safety reasons, you don’t want it fluctuating a lot.

  • i’d love to pop in just for the eggs benedict alone. god knows how much i love poached eggs. but those panini and duck confit pancake had me salivate more for a taste that is slightly different from what my palate would expect, and they seem to be the perfect remedy.

  • That all looks so yummy…..The meals look so large, that it would take a person more than a day or two to finish it…..

    This place might just surprise you and stick around for a while, a long while…..

    • Indeed it might. I did make it for dinner finally and found the food to be similarly good, although I do think a bit pricey.

  • yummy! the food looks amazingggg <3

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